How to Care for Military Surplus Clothing: Cleaning, Storage and Inspection

Archived guide

Military surplus clothing can be a practical part of an outdoor wardrobe, but it benefits from a little attention before it goes into regular use. A jacket, field shirt, pair of trousers, gloves, or cold-weather layer may have been stored for a long time or passed through more than one owner. The goal is not to make every piece look new. It is to understand its condition, clean it in a way that suits the fabric, and store it so small problems do not become larger ones.

Start with the garment itself rather than assumptions about its age, origin, or intended use. Read the care label if one is present, inspect the construction, and choose gentle methods when information is incomplete. That approach protects both the item and the time you invest in it.

Inspect first, before washing or wearing

Set the garment on a clean, well-lit surface and look over the outside and inside. Check seams, cuffs, collars, hems, pocket corners, belt loops, and any point where two layers meet. These areas take repeated stress and often reveal loose stitching before the rest of the garment does. Turn pockets inside out and remove grit, old paper, or anything left behind.

Operate every zipper, snap, button, drawcord, hook-and-loop tab, and buckle slowly. Do not force a zipper that catches: a small amount of debris, a bent tooth, or fabric caught in the track can turn a minor issue into a broken closure. Look for missing hardware, frayed webbing, stretched elastic, and cracked coatings. If a repair is beyond your comfort level, a local tailor or gear-repair specialist may be able to assess it.

Also use your senses. A persistent musty smell can indicate that an item was stored damp, while a sharp chemical odor may mean it needs more careful handling and airing out. Visible mold, unknown residues, or material that is crumbling should be treated cautiously. Avoid wearing or washing questionable items in a way that could spread residue to other clothing; when in doubt, seek professional cleaning advice or decide that the item is not suitable for use.

Identify the fabric and its special features

Care instructions depend on what the garment is made from. Cotton and cotton-blend field clothing generally tolerates different washing and drying than wool, fleece, insulated shells, waterproof-breathable fabrics, or flame-resistant garments. A label may list fiber content, temperature limits, and warnings about bleach, ironing, or dry cleaning. Follow it when it is readable.

When a label is missing, choose the least aggressive reasonable option: cool water, a mild detergent, and air drying. Avoid treating camouflage, printed fabrics, coated shells, and unknown synthetic blends as though they were ordinary cotton T-shirts. Hot water, high dryer heat, strong solvents, and chlorine bleach can fade color, damage coatings, shrink fibers, or weaken elastic and adhesives.

Some garments have a specific protective purpose, such as rain protection, flame resistance, or cold-weather insulation. Cleaning does not restore a damaged coating or certify protection, and a surplus item should not be relied on for a safety-critical job without confirming its condition and suitability. If a label gives special-care directions, those directions matter more than a general laundry routine.

Use a low-risk cleaning routine

Shake out and spot-clean

Begin by shaking out dust outdoors or over a washable surface. Brush dry mud gently with a soft brush. For a small spot, test a tiny, hidden area with water and a mild cleaner before treating the visible stain. Blot rather than scrub hard, especially around printed markings, aged fabric, or coated material. Let the test area dry completely before deciding whether to continue.

Wash similar items together

If machine washing is appropriate, close zippers, fasten snaps and hook-and-loop tabs, and turn the garment inside out when practical. Wash it with similar colors and weights so heavy hardware or rough fabric does not abrade lighter clothing. A gentle cycle in cool or lukewarm water is a sensible default when the label does not say otherwise. Use the amount of mild detergent needed for the load; extra detergent can be difficult to rinse from dense fabric and insulation.

Avoid chlorine bleach unless the garment's label specifically permits it. Bleach can harm fibers and color, and it may be unsuitable for fabrics treated for particular performance characteristics. Fabric softener can leave a coating that reduces wicking or affects technical fabrics, so it is usually best skipped unless the care instructions call for it. If an item still smells stale after washing, an additional rinse and thorough drying are often more useful than adding fragrance.

Dry with patience

Air drying is the safest general choice. Hang clothing where air circulates, shape collars and cuffs while damp, and keep it away from direct high heat. Sun can help dry an item, but extended intense exposure may fade colors and weaken some materials. If the care label allows tumble drying, use the lowest heat that will do the job and remove the garment when dry rather than baking it through a long cycle.

Thick layers, pockets, cuffs, and insulated sections can retain moisture even when the outside feels dry. Check them before putting the garment away. Storing clothing even slightly damp is an easy way to create odor and mildew problems.

Handle repairs before they spread

Small repairs are usually easier than emergency fixes in the field. Trim only loose threads that are clearly detached; do not pull a thread that runs into a seam. A loose button, an opening at a seam, or a small hole can often be repaired with matching thread and a basic needle. Reinforce a patch from the inside when possible so the repaired area has support, rather than simply covering the damage from the outside.

For zippers, remove lint and dirt from the track with a soft brush. If the slider is misaligned, stop before applying force. Replacing a zipper, repairing torn webbing, or dealing with delaminated coated fabric may be work for a professional. A repair should preserve movement and fit; an overly stiff patch at a knee, elbow, or shoulder can create a new wear point.

Store clothing clean, dry, and easy to inspect

Long-term storage begins after the garment is clean and completely dry. Dirt, body oils, and food residue can attract pests and set stains over time. Fold items without crushing insulation whenever possible, and avoid packing a damp rain shell or insulated layer into an airtight container immediately after a trip.

Choose a cool, dry place away from plumbing leaks, damp concrete, and direct sunlight. A breathable garment bag or a clean bin with enough room to avoid sharp creases can work well, depending on the item. Do not seal clothing away with strong-smelling chemicals or fragranced products that may transfer odor to the fabric. For wool or other natural fibers, inspect periodically for signs of insects rather than relying on a one-time storage treatment.

Label bins by use, season, or size. This makes it easier to find a layer before a trip and encourages quick seasonal checks. At the start and end of a season, take a few minutes to air items out, inspect closures, and look for moisture or pest damage. Regular short inspections are more manageable than discovering a whole storage bin needs attention.

Prepare gear for the next outing

Before relying on a surplus garment outdoors, try it on with the layers you expect to wear. Check reach, crouch, shoulder movement, pocket access, and whether closures still work with gloves. Confirm that a hood, cuff, or waist adjustment changes fit as intended. Clothing that seems fine on a hanger may behave differently when you are carrying a pack or moving in wet weather.

Keep a simple care note if you own several pieces: record repairs, missing parts, and any cleaning method that worked well. That note is especially useful for items with similar colors or patterns. Carry a compact repair kit on longer trips, but remember that field repair is for temporary fixes. Inspect and repair properly once you are home.

FAQ

Should I wash surplus clothing as soon as I get it?

Inspect it first. If it is clean, odor-free, and has a readable care label, washing may be straightforward. If it has unknown residue, visible mold, or a strong chemical smell, avoid mixing it with other laundry and consider professional advice.

Can I put a surplus jacket in the dryer?

Only if its care label permits it. High heat can shrink fabric, affect coatings, and damage insulation or elastic. Air drying is the lower-risk default when the garment's construction is unknown.

How do I remove a musty storage smell?

Air the item out, then wash it according to the label with a complete rinse and dry it thoroughly. If odor persists or there are signs of mold, do not simply cover it with fragrance; reassess the garment's condition.

Does surplus clothing provide guaranteed protection?

No. Condition, age, prior use, and care all matter. Do not treat a used garment as certified protective equipment for hazardous, fire, chemical, or severe-weather conditions without verifying that it is appropriate for that purpose.

A simple habit that extends useful life

The most useful care routine is modest: inspect before use, clean gently when needed, dry completely, repair small issues early, and store each item where it can stay dry. Those habits help you make informed decisions about the clothing you own and keep it ready for everyday outdoor use.

Related store information

For current 907 Surplus information, browse the catalog categories or contact the store.